So, bike manufacturers are cutting back as well then, right? A nice line of sensible and affordable triathlon bikes, right? Right?

Not a bit of it.

Here are 12 Outrageously expensive bikes. Your’s for the price of a small to medium sized car. Or you kids’ college fund.

Did I miss any?  Call me out on my mistakes on Twitter @triathlonnut

Giant Trinity Advanced SLO

Advanced SL-Grade Aero Composite frame, Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 Drivetrain and Zipp wheels. A monster of a bike and looks great too. My complaint – pedals not included. Bit tight that if you ask me!

Yours, for $13,000

BMC Time Machine TT01

Swiss made frame using the 3-P system. That means its based on ergonomic data from over 3000 male and female athletes. A bargain compared to the Giant Trinity – coming in under that crucial $13k figure.

Yours, for $12,999

Scott Plasma Premium

Optimized for aerodynamic efficiency while maintaining UCI compliance (how do you feel about that Ceepo Viper?) [see below]

Yours, for $9,999

Specialized S-Works Shiv 2011 Concept

I love Specialized bikes and this one just looks the part.

Yours, for $11,775

Wilier Cento1 Crono 2011 Concept

Combining the latest airflow technology with the latest carbon performance technology is a sure fire recipe for speed.  Seems pretty accurate to me.

Yours, for $11,240

Pinarello Graal Carbon Di2

Compared to the, FM1, the previous model, the Graal has completely new geometries, steeper seat tube angles and a vertical seat post.  In a word - Understated.

Yours, for $9,750

Trek Speed Concept 9.9

You’ve got to seriously back yourself putting a cracking bike time to bring out a machine that looks like this out on race day.  All you need now are some go-faster stripes on your helmet and you’re all set.

Yours, for $12,100

Felt DA

A genuine ‘superbike’ with a price tag to match.

Yours, for $12,499

Cervelho P4 9000

It’s a strange day when you refer to the P4 as being a ‘bargain’ at the ‘low end’ of the price point.  Once referred to as the fastest legal bike there is, the P4 has apparently had 25 upgrades since the last model.

Yours, for $9,000

Ceepo Viper 2011 Concept

My favorite part of the official Ceepo website description of the Viper is this: “UCI rules compliant – NO.” I’m guessing it’s a pretty fast bike then?

Yours, for $12,750

Look 596 Mondrian 2011

A bike that look’s like it got dressed in the dark.

Yours, for $10,600.

Did I Miss Any?

So there you have it, 12 of the most outrageous triathlon bikes out there, each with their own overwhelming price tag.  Don’t agree with me or think I’ve missed a bike from the list?   Let me know on Twitter @triathlonnut

But please, just don’t ask me to include this monster!

Colnage Crono Oro

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Find a place where you can be safe. It should be somewhere out of the way or on a trail.

Removing Your Wheel

Take out or loosen the brakes.

If the wheel that needs replacement is the one located at the back, transfer to the smallest gear at the back. This simplifies the process of putting the wheel back.

Separate the wheel and the bike frame.

Visually inspect the tire for sharp objects like broken glass, nails, thorns, tacks, and the lacks. If needed, take out these objects.

Separate Tube from Tire

Utilize the tire levers in order to take out the whole tube.

Take out the tube from inside the tire.

Inspect the inside of the tire using your fingers. Be careful!  There may be glass in there.  Run your fingers around the inside to check for punctures made by foreign objects. If you find anything, remove it.

Replace the Tube

For holes that are more than 1mm, you will need to cover it using the ‘glue-less patch’ to close it. This will prevent the new tube from protruding through the hole once the tube is inflated. Nonetheless, when you get home replace the tire immediately.

To help the tube stay in shape, inflate it with a little amount of air before you try and attach it to the frame.

Replace the brand new tube inside the tire.

Reattach the Tire

Be extremely careful not to put pressure on the new tube when replacing the tire back on the rim. Do not let the rim and the side of the tire to pinch the new tube.

Ensure that the tire is sitting on the rim before you push the valve stem through the tire. Once in place, take out the valve stem.

Visually inspect the position of the tire on the rim. Ensure that the whole tire is completely seated on the rim.

Put a little amount of air inside the tire. Check if the tire is seated well on the rim on all sides then inflate the tire completely.

Reattach the Wheel

Re-attach the wheel onto the bike frame. Ensure that everything is aligned, centered and straight as much as possible.

Put the brake back on.

Pack up your old tube and take it away with you.

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Well, you are not alone in wondering if you can make long bike rides more comfortable…

Obviously you want to make your rides as comfortable as possible. It is possible and it’s not expensive, nor excessive. In fact, it’s pretty simple.

Is Your Saddle the Problem?

Check out the different types of saddles that provide excellent pressure relief sold in the market, by visiting bike stores and triathlon stores, and browsing through bike catalogs. Choose a saddle that fits you well.

As much as possible, ask others about the saddles they are using. You can ask your coach, your teammates, and even those whom you train with. Ask them if they have any suggestions regarding a saddle that can make you feel comfortable.

It Takes Time to Break In

Once you have that new saddle installed, keep in mind that there will always be a break in period for the saddle to fit you perfectly. This is the same principle you use when you buy a pair of shoes; the longer you use them, the more they fit your feet.

Moreover, to make it more comfortable, you may want to soften the saddle material by applying medicated Vaseline known as Aquaphor on the edges, which also helps prevent chaffing. This method may wear down the saddle faster but, if you ask me, being comfortable is more important than prolonging the life of your saddle.

Take the Pressure Off

Despite the new and more comfortable saddle, there is still a need for you to ease the pressure during the bike ride. Long rides tend to shift your position in the saddle. Moreover, longer rides while sitting on your saddle can create pressure between the saddle and your pelvic area, which then results in feelings of numbness and soreness.

This emphasizes the need for pressure relief, which you can only achieve if you have been working out to strengthen your core. You need strong core muscles to keep your body in the optimal position, which will lead to less pressure.  No more skipping those core exercises!

Stand Up

There is one simple way to relieve pressure and that is to stand up while riding your bike on a flat course. This is very important because everytime you pop up, you are getting rid of the pressure between your pelvic area and the saddle.

Unfortunately, you have the tendency to keep on sitting during a flat course, which I do not recommend. Instead of sitting, stand up every 30 minutes throughout the course. This is one great way to relieve pressure.

Feel the ride and enjoy the scenery. Relieving pressure is very easy and simple, and in a fewsteps you will feel comfortable in your saddle again.

Happy riding!

Terry

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Challenge Yourself

You can always throw in different types of challenges in pedaling for your neuromuscular system to force it in getting creative to try different patterns of muscle recruitment, some will be more efficient while others will help you in resisting fatigue much better.

No bike workout that you do during your weekly training regime should be like the others. You should always vary your speed and intensity because this will help build muscular and cardio endurance.

Switch It Up

There are four major speed or intensity levels that you need to regularly incorporate in your training, in order of decreasing volume, on moderate aerobic intensity, threshold intensity, VO2max pace and of course, maximum power.

There are also other variables that you need to adjust when training for bike such as duration, gradient, cadence and force.

Short of time? Just do a quick hill workout.

You don’t need to spend hours and hours on your bike. If you mix up longer rides with short power or hill rides, your body will contuinually be suprised by your training, and you’ll see huge improvements in your bike fitness and speed.

Good Luck!

Tri Trainer

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Make use of your gears wisely

Do not force a gear which is way too hard and wears down your legs (bear in mind, you’ve still got a run to do). Continue to keep your cadence up around 90 RPM. So you don’t grind up a hill, anticipate what gear you have got to be in for any hills, and shift early.

Train using new equipment

When you join a race with new bike equipment, be sure that you have tested and mastered it first. This applies to aerobars, clipless pedals, saddles, wheels – anything on your bicycle that could have a bad effect on your riding. This suggestion is particularly significant for clipless pedals; ensure you could stop and dismount safely prior to using them in a race.

Work on U-turns

Why? Many races with out-and-back bicycle courses have a U-turn turnaround wherein you need to navigate around an orange cone. Even seasoned triathletes found themselves kissing the road because of these turnarounds. To prepare for the race, look for a place where you can practice sharp corners and U-turns. Like in a race, always take them slowly.

Stay hydrated on the bike

Many newbies wait until the run to start drinking liquids. That is a big mistake. Don’t forget to drink on the bike, so you are already on a full tank of gas as you start the run.

Put on a helmet

Helmets are required during races, but do not forget to wear one throughout your training. There are circumstances when even veteran cyclists can crash through no fault of their own. Never assume that you will be safe even without a helmet.  If this is what happens to a helmet in a crash, imagine what your skull would look like.  Seriously, wear your helmet.

Keep your bicycle in good condition

Not keeping the bike chain lubricated and not keeping tires at the proper pressure are two of the most frequent mistakes novices make.

These mistakes could cause mechanical breakdown – either a broken chain or a flat tire. Buy lubricating oil, and consult your bike shop owner about its proper usage. While you’re there, purchase a floor pump with a built-in pressure gauge.

Good luck on the bike!

Terry

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Do ride with traffic. Cycling on the road can be an exhilarating experience, but it’s vital that you should stick to the rules of the road in order to stay safe and injury-free, especially if you are restricted in your training course by high traffic roads.

The proper and legal way to ride on roadways is with traffic, and not against it, contrary to the daredevil bicycle messengers you probably see in busy downtown streets.

Weaving in between parked cars is another typical mistake since it makes it hard for motorists to see you until it is too late. Ride in a straight line, avoid erratic or unexpected turns, and ride defensively.

Don’t ride on busy streets or paths. It amazes me whenever I see serious cyclists riding on busy roadways, with hundreds of cars passing by them within inches of their limbs.

Living in big cities makes it difficult to find open roads for cycling, unlike those who are fortunate enough to reside near countryside roads. But thousands of bicyclists are hit, at times fatally, by vehicles on highly trafficked roadways.

Get yourself a bike rack, and drive to a place which has less dangerous training routes if you do not reside near rural roadways with low traffic. Yes, it’s a pain and takes more time out of your busy schedule, but your ride will be much more enjoyable and, on top of that, safer.

Another tip: Try to ride at times when there might be much less traffic on the roadways.

Do take part in group and organized rides. Bike clubs and stores in almost every well-populated area of the country sponsor weekly rides, and longer organized rides happen almost every weekend.

Organized rides are a great means of practice, providing you with an opportunity to mix with a group of people who are near your current riding ability. Many large groups consist of a wide range of riding talent, from the slowpoke talkers to the stone-faced quad machines.

Weekend rides with frequent food stops range from 20 to 100 miles; they are excellent opportunities to get in a good amount of mileage without having to bother about having sufficient essential fluids and food with you. These kinds of events will relieve you from boredom that can set in during those rides that may go over 25 miles (40 km).

Don’t ride an uncomfortable bike. I have mentioned how essential it is to get a properly fitted bicycle, but I can’t stress this point enough. No one likes to be uncomfortable in an activity that may last an hour or much longer, and riding a bicycle that does not fit, or is uncomfortable, is just a real drag.

Other factors that affect comfort are the choice of a bicycle saddle (no real guideline here-you just have to keep trying them until you find one which fits your unique butt) and padded bicycle shorts.

Do be ready for anything. Unlike swimming in a pool at the YMCA, or running within a few miles from your doorstep, biking could take you some formidable distances. You might find yourself 10 or even more miles away from your home, on some lonely road without a soul in sight. So it is essential to be ready for any mishap that might occur, mechanical or otherwise.

First of all, do not ride wthout using bicycle helmet. Have a friend or someone at your local bike shop teach you the way to fix a flat tire. Carry at least two tubes and also a pump (or CO, air cartridges) with you at all times. Carry a multipurpose cycling tool which will fit in a behind-the-saddle frame bag for basic repairs even if you are not mechanically inclined.

Carry a credit card, driver’s license and some cash with you always. You can also bring a cellular phone plus some extra snacks and water for longer rides.

Don’t be intimidated. For beginners, biking might be intimidating for them for a couple of reasons. The expensive tri-bicycles you’re certain to find in the transition area of any competitive triathlon (particularly hotly contested, large events like Ironman qualifying races), are enough to make anybody rolling in with a mountain bike, or old clunker, feel ashamed.  Don’t be intimidated – everyone has to start somewhere!

Good luck!

Terry

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Get accustomed to riding all by yourself. If you come from a road racing background, then you may be pretty good at drafting and comfortably riding in a paceline.

But, triathlons are more like time trials rather than road races, so adjust your training accordingly. Be sure you do most of your training without drafting, but you could still do the occasional professional bike shop ride, or road race, just for fun and competition.

Get in the pool and pound the pavement. The temptation may be to concentrate on becoming a better cyclist, but your efforts are much better spent focusing on your weak points, not your strength. Cycling will comprise the majority of time in any proper triathlon training course, but that doesn’t give you permission to skip the other two sports.

Get over any aversion to aerobars. It took the road racing community quite a long time to acknowledge aerobars, and some traditionalists still scoff at their use, even for time trialing (although they are now in the minority). Aerobars provide a significant performance advantage, and my guess is that, as a veteran cyclist, you would like to do well on the bike leg of a race.

Get Aero. Having experts at your local specialty bike or triathlon shop take a look at you on your bicycle is a good way to find your ideal aero position. They may help you make the proper seat, stem, and handlebar modifications to improve your comfort level and aerodynamics.

Normally these bike fittings entail taking a number of exacting measurements (for instance, your position relative to the stem, crankarm, as well as other “landmarks” on your bike), because even small adjustments can help alleviate strain on your arms or provide you with greater pedaling extension.

Good Luck!

Terry

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‘Runners’ effectively negate their natural running ability

Typically, strong runners who lack adequate biking training will post unusually slow times on the run, simply because the cycling has worn them down. These normally fast runners begin the run on sore, tired legs, often even close to cramping if they don’t have the appropriate training and necessary cyclingtraining under their belts.

It matters not that they have a better runner’s body, or that their marathon bests beat cyclists’ by more than 30 minutes. By not adequately training on the bike, ‘runners’ effectively negate their natural running ability.

Remember, even if your goal is simply to finish your first race – the same rules apply

Because many triathletes come from a running background, biking is often the 2nd most feared event among the three (behind everyone’s bogey of the open water swim).

For a newbie, biking might not be as intimidating as open-water swimming, but there are many reasons why some triathletes avoid cycling training. Some find the speeds too nerve-racking, or maybe the danger of riding in traffic is a factor. Some simply find biking uncomfortable or monotonous.

Riding comprises the majority of a triathlon

Regardless of what your aversion is to cycling (for those who have one), understand this: Riding comprises the majority of time in a triathlon.

Regardless of how you train, you will spend most of your race on a bicycle saddle. So now would be the right time to get used to riding if you plan on attempting a triathlon. That’s not to say you will necessarily find bicycle training to be unpleasant. You may find the open roads to be an escape from everyday stress, group rides to be excellent social outings, and the dizzying speeds of downhills to be uplifting experiences.

I know I do!

Terry

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Short. These very short rides improve endurance and introduce the novice cyclist to prolonged time on the saddle. You may do this at a relatively simple pace, most ideally spinning.

From 5 miles (eight km), these rides gradually increase to ten to fifteen miles (sixteen to 24 km). A common issue among riders is saddle soreness, but with time the muscles in your buttocks would harden and also the pain will eventually go away.

Medium-distance rides. These rides are best for those training for an Olympic-distance race (40K cycling leg). They can range from 20 to 30 miles (32 to 48 km), and the intensity depends on the race goal.

Long rides. These rides are typically carried out at a slow, even, conversational pace. These range from 40 to around a hundred miles (64 to 160 km). The aim with long rides is mainly to increase stamina.

Time trials. Do these race simulation rides on a course with very few or no stops and at an intensity that is close to, or at, your desired race pace. Typically, they are half of what the actual race distance is.  These are good rides to allow you to track your improvement as a cyclist during the course of your training program.

Group rides. The intensity of these rides depends upon the group. Most group rides go twenty-five to forty miles (40 to 64 km). These rides can be killer workouts, great social gatherings, or a little bit of both.

Hill or power exercises. If by chance you live somewhere with a hilly terrain, hill climbing can help you develop both your strength and power, the two factors that will help you go faster.

Or you could also accomplish this with power workouts, that integrate sprinting intervals in the middle of a ride.  One caution: These workouts are regarded as speed work, and you must not try them without first completing base training.

* Recovery exercises. These exercises entail short rides at a low intensity, with lots of spinning. The distance could range from five to up to twenty miles (8 to 32 km). The aim of these exercises is to recover from a tough or long workout. Spinning during recovery exercises helps to loosen up legs and relieve soreness or fatigue.

Good luck!

Terry

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You are probably aware that although some gears are easy to pedal, there are also others that will wear you down.

Learn the Gears

Learning to make use of gearing to accommodate workout goals and handle varying terrain appropriately is a skill that you gradually attain by experimentation and training.

You will gradually learn which gear you feel most comfortable in. Until your legs (specifically your knees) adjust to the cycling motion, and you’re positive that your cycling ability has reached a competitive level, hammering the big gears will do you more harm than good.

You’ll cause undue, and potentially damaging, stress on your knees. You may end up getting burned out, and overtrain.

What is Spinning?

Spinning improves efficiency by pedaling at high RPM (revolutions per minute). Spinning is a safe way of preventing knee injury, learning proper pedaling method and adjusting to the unique motion of cycling.

Most professionals contend that pedaling at 85 to 95 RPM is an efficient spinning range. How do you know your RPM? The most effective way is to buy a computer with a cadence feature, which displays your RPM at the push of a button.

It will be extremely hard to determine if you’re actually spinning without a computer with cadence, especially if you’re a newbie.

How to Spin

Generally, the resistance you are spinning with must feel relatively simple, but not so soft and rapid that your pedaling motion becomes choppy, erratic, or uncontrollable. Pedaling must feel smooth, and your target should be on doing the whole 360-degree pedal stroke efficiently, with no “dead spots” or bursts of power.

Each pedal stroke should feel controlled and tight all the way around. It is more challenging to spin throughout an entire exercise if you practice on hilly terrain. Use your entire range of gears, and do not be afraid to make use of your easiest gear (largest cog and your smallest chain ring) to maintain high RPM on uphills.

Spinning should make up the first few hundred miles of cycling. In fact, for shorter or middle-distance triathlons, spinning might be your entire training program.

Indoor Spinning

Please note: In recent years, mainstream health and fitness enthusiasts have embraced “spinning” classes that, to some degree, imitate the training discussed here. This type of indoor training on a stationary bike however adds other factors and isn’t the exact spinning as described here.

Group indoor “spinning” classes are enjoyable and can enhance your training down the road, but do not neglect a base of easy and high-revolution road riding before you begin pushing bigger gears or increasing resistance, whether indoors or out.

Good luck!

Terry

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